Thursday, August 21, 2008

Ghana

Photobucket Album

Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Back in the City

May 29, 2008

Today was a good day. I sat in on this intense discussion with one of the professor, one of the chaperones, and two of my group mates. They were talking about how in the Ghanaian courts the judges still wear the white wigs and how they should get rid of them because they represent an oppresive system. One of my group mates disagreed and she was saying that you have to look past the symbols because otherwise you will always be sad and upset. I agreed with the majority, but I could see what she was saying and why. The group mate who disagreed is Jamaican and it is different when you have a home. It is not exactly the same for Black Americans in America.

It felt good to finally be back in Accra just because I know er're not going to have to pack for the road again. Also the big city is... well it's cool. I've been trying to connect with the woman I was supposed to meet here, but it is proving quite difficult.

The biggest distraction from calling when we arrived around 5pm was this big launch that MTN were hosting at the hotel. I met Fionna, Douglas, Oscar, Akill, and some other people who were really cool. They all worked for MTN and having a good time. I liked talking to Fionna. She was the event planner and was talking about how she worked her way up. She was saying when you get a good job you hold on to it and that's it. No one seems stressed, but the gender divide in work is obvious. I think there were maybe six women in the whole place, out of about 100.

Akill said I looked like a journalist after I told him what I was studying. I don't really know what that means, but I took it as a compliment.

I was trying to tell everyone goodbye before dinner started, but I had to run to the room to get on some bug spray first because it was getting dark. Unfortunately, when I came back out they were breaking down and I didn't get to say bye to anyone, but Akill does have a Facebook, so I'm going to add him as a friend.

It's Natural

May 28, 2008

I think things would be so much simpler if I lived in the trees. We did the canopy walk today and it was very pretty, very peaceful. It was a little scary though because we were walking across boards suspended by cables, very Indiana Jones. I took in the scenery, but still wanted to get across fairly quickly. Even more trecherous than being at least 50 feet off the ground were the rocks we had to hike on going up and down. These rocks were slippery. I had wore my tennis shoes so that made everything a lot better.

I didn't talk much on the canopy walk. I haven't talked a lot period, except to a few of my classmates. I was really tired after the canopy walk. I'm terribly out of shape. There was also a museum and gift shop in the park, but like other things we've visited, it was somewhat in disrepair.

Before the canopy walk I was in class with Dr. Traore. We were discussing the story "Some Global News," which was more or less about identity and the Western/European standards to which mostly everyone is held. I could relate to the story. Also in the story and throughout the book itself was the female empowerment theme, which we also discussed. I was confused because the Akan people (in the Southern region of Ghana) are matrilineal, but it doesn't seem to be helping the women any. This is because there is a major difference between matrilineal and matriarchal. Apparently, tracing your roots through your mother is just that and doesn't have any real extra perks. In fact, it seems dangerous to discount the man like that because it just seems to foster irresponsibility.

After we got back from the canopy walk I was talking to the gift shop attendant, Georgette. I told her she had a great name, being close to Georgia and all. She laughed at a lot of the things I said, much of it was very random. We did have a small talk about politics. In Ghana there are five parties, but Georgette didn't think very highly of any of them. She knew about Barrack and I don't think anyone outside the U.S. likes Bush. She was nice, she gave me a key chain. She lives with her sister and has applied to Cape Coast University. I told her if she is ever in Georgia to look me up. We exchanged info. I enjoyed talking to her.

My conversation with Georgette segued into visiting again with Maame (a student at the University of Cape Coast). This time here brother Timmy came. We didn't get a chance to talk a lot at dinner. I did ask them what kind of movies they liked and we were talking about White Chicks and The Incredibles. I asked her if she wanted to own her own business and she wants to start her own accounting firm.

After dinner we watched Yaaba. It was about an old lady who was outcast from the village, but two kids befriended her. The discussion after the movie bored Maame and I wasn't engaged because I was fighting sleep the entire time the movie was on, (which Maame joked about afterwards). We basically discussed the symbols inf the movie and the matrilineal pattern. When we left out of the movie area it was a monsoon outside. Not really, but it was raining pretty hard so I waited it out with a classmate. Well everyone pretty much waited a little while, but my classmate and I waited the longest.

Today was a long day.

Truth in History

May 27, 2008

We toured the two slave castles in Cape Coast today. It was intense.

Before we went to the castles though we went to the University of Cape Coast. It was great. I enjoyed talking to the lady who was taking us around, even though she was not as familiar with things outside of her field (textiles). The students of Cape Coast seemed really nice. Once again, it was a little surprising at how Western the students dressed. We went to the library, but unfortunately did not hang around very long. The campus was quite large.

Going back to the slave castles- The first one really got to me, so by the end of the second tour I felt completely drained. What was sad about the second castle (Elmina) was a) how many times it changed European hands with the help of the Africans and b) how large it was. (Africans helped the Dutch drive out the Portuguese because they thought they would be better.)

It took a lot for me not to loose it in the first castle. In fact, whenever I started getting too upset I took some pictures to remove myself from the severity of it all, (I debated taking any pictures at all). In the museum is where I lost it though, just to see that my ancestors were reduced to being sold on an auction block when there is so much more. To add to that, the tour guide at the Elmina castle said that they didn't keep the Africans in healthy conditions because they were afraid that the would be too strong. Similarly, after I saw the auction block, I saw the real rich history of the Asante. It hit me that they reduced royalty to a for sale sign, and for what? Cotton?

Even though the day was rough, I made a new friend in the textile teacher's daughter. She's 20 too, but she's about to graduate college. We exchanged info and talked about some of everything. Her and her mom seem like really sweet people.

Old and New

Erin Parks
Journal 4
Ghana Study Abroad Program 2008

I really enjoyed the lectures at KNUST this morning (My 20). I almost started to nod off because I had not slept very well the night before, but I held it together. I have to say my favorite lectures were the first and the last by Dr. Ackam and Dr. Tagoe-Darko. Unfortunately, Dr. Darko's presentation had to be cut short and was a little rushed because we were running out of time, but she was really talking about the culture and I enjoyed that greatly.

What really stood out to me about Dr. Ackam's presentation was when he challenged one of my classmates about what Ghanaian art is. The point he was trying to make is that Ghana can be just as contemporary and that no country magically develops all of its own at the speed of light. His comment about Ghanaian art and even Africa in general not just being represented by the old and crude (wood carvings, kente clothe, etc), but also the contemporary and sophisticated (oil paintings, etc) is really applicable to what I have been seeing in terms of development as we go along.

The fact that you can have a nice University, such as the University of Ghana or KNUST, but then go forty minutes away and be in a village that has little to no modern amenities (indoor plumbing, ect), is confusing to me. I would like to say that the government or whoever is in charge of development in a given area is trying to preserve people's way of life, but honestly it just looks like disregard.

As we moved North it was really exaggerated. For example, our hotel (with indoor plumbing, electricity, etc.) was ten minutes away from a village where they were fighting against a parasite in their water and using a pump. I am not saying that there should not be anymore villages because the Sugashea village seemed pretty organized and the people looked like they were suited in the manner in which they lived. However, the world outside is changing and the pressures of disease and a need for commerce can be felt. It is quite difficult to balance two opposites. For example, the pride over having a large number of children and the practicality of birth control, as Dr. Tagoe-Darko mentioned.

Fast Forward

Since my return people have been asking me how my trip was. In some cases they want to know all about what I did, but in other cases they just want to know what I saw. Or in other words, whether or not the people are all living in jungles and running around with spears. I went no where near a jungle. Further more, if I did get lost in the jungle there would probably be a radio blasting 'Golddigger' by Kanye West.

The point is, Ghana has absorbed far more Western influences and is a lot more developed than people are led to believe. As an American I could have been as comfortable as I wanted to be (for example, stay in a five star hotel and log onto the Internet everyday), or I could have been as uncomfortable as possible, (for example gone without instant electricity in a village). Who am I to say that to live in a manner that requires more effort and skill is inadequate?

The real truth, is that I discovered that the pipes in the Sugashee village, for example, are long overdue for a replacement. In America that is a city job, to go in and fix pipes in a neighborhood. In Ghana there is no such thing as a city job, so who's to blame for water that must be boiled before drinking? The fault is of an independence only fifty years old, but a country as old as time that must whether exploitation and greed. In some places, for the sake of profit, you can not tell that you are in a developing country and in other places (like Sugashee) you can.

The educated, formal job market employees live one way and the uneducated, informal job market employees live another. Either way they both can live in the city, a house with a tin roof or a thatch roof is not a hut, and I saw Bill Clinton's book in a bookstore.

Most Beautiful

May 25, 2008

It rained this moring, twice. So we didn't go on the morning safari walk inside of Mole game reserve where we would have been 20ft away from the elephants taking a bath. We had to watch the elephants from a look-out by the motel. Needless to say, I did not think it was worth the brutal drive here, especially since we have to take the same road out of Mole. I do believe God made it rain to soften the road.

In addition to the uncomfortable road, the whole bus ride from Mole to Kumasi spanned about nine hours. It was difficult. I was running through my snacks, but I did manage to sleep a little.
I had some Divine Inspiration this morning with the rain. I was reminded to be thankful and not to complain. Also to take in what was going on- really try to open myself up.
The hotel we spent the night in Kumasi was the Miklin hotel. It was beautiful. The table dressings we had at dinner said it all. The staff were also very attentive.

After dinner we were watching "Ghana's Most Beautiful." The women were all full figured and were doing ethnic dances from their region. One of the male chaperones for the trip said that the skinny look is very European and that real men like women with a little extra. Hmm... I must admit, I'm still stuck in the European mindset then. Sometimes I don't think I'm that small. Anyway, the show was great and the host was entertaining. The judges also seemed very knowledgeable and 'not for TV,' by that I mean no Paula Abduls or Randy Jacksons. I also enjoyed the musical groups that performed. The dances looked like our dances. As I draw parallels it reminds me of the movie "Rize."

Tomorrow we leave for Cape Coast!

In the Tamale Market

May 23, 2008

Today was a great day. We (two of my groupmates and I) walked around in the market. The real market- with fish and raw meat, rice, containers, everything! It was really nice. One of my group mates was more or less the navigatorand I found some beautiful fabric for my grandma. I can't wait to give it to her. I still want a batique dress though. Like a nice sun dress. Anyway, the market was so real to me.

We also went to an Internet cafe. It was only 70 pesuas an hour! (It's approximately 70 cents.) It was great. We also ate at The Crest. We shared some veggie fried rice. We talked about sorrorities. We talked about growing into ourselves and what we thought about the trip so far. The ambience of The Crest was really nice. There was a cool breeze. The coolest thing though was that we ran into Mutia and her friend Humdia in the market. (Mutia had accompianied the group to the Sugashee village yesterday to translate.)

Many Encounters

May 18, 2008


It is day six of my stay in Ghana and my feet smell quite badly. I wear socks pretty much everyday- (this is only because many of the places we go do not have fully paved sidewalks and roads and I do not want dusty feet) -and I sweat, so the end result is not very good. When I get to the States, I want to go to a podiatrist or something and just get really checked out in general. I feel like my body is rebelling against me.

On another note, the visit to the AME church was really nice. I do not go to an AME and the service was in the native language, so I did not follow very well. They were really nice to us. They have several collections and one of them the people dance around. The best part was the Sunday schools. It was great because there was one for the litttle children, then there was one for the teenagers. In the older stdents class they learn how to put God's word into practice, (preaching, teaching, etc.). After kids graduate from the Sunday schools they then go to the big church and serve on committees and worship. I think that is a wonderful idea and a really great way to help young people, like myself, really grow and develop a relationship with God for themselves.

After church I felt better, but I did not like the fiasco at lunch. There was a small bit of metal in my food and a couple other girls never got their food, but the waitresses and such wanted us to still pay for it all.

Before lunch we got to shake hands with some chiefs and the Queen Mother at a festival in Kumasi. It's funny though because the Queen Mother was the least ornate out of all of them to me. One of the chiefs told me I could stay with him where he was instead of going on down the row and leaving. I smiled because I got a compliment from a chief. (It may have been more of an indecent proposal but you know, when in Rome!) We also saw the Ashanti king and the king and queen of Uganda. The festival was really cool to me because I had seen the ceremony for the Ashanti king on TV, so I recognized the umbrellas and the gold worn by the Ashantis.

The sun at the festival was intense. There were a lot of people there. It looked like half of Kumasi even though I know that's not true. The police in Ghana are for the whole country. I'm mentioning them because there were a lot of them there, at the festival. Also the police wear different style uniforms. I just noticed it.

After lunch the day was pretty much gone. I just read and sat with a classmate and Dr. Lowe. He said that we would be going to a calling place soon. I already mailed my postcards this morning. On of them said "This Be Ghana" on the front. I just thought the phrase and the picture of the tro tros (large vans that run like taxis) that went with it said it all. If I could call home though it would make me feel better.

At dinner I disclosed that this trip was my first flight, first out of country, etc. I also talked to Iasac who was one of the lay member's son at the AME I went to this morning. He was in education and 29. He looked 23 or 25 though. The whole age thing with people looking younger than they are is a noticeable pattern in Ghana. I hope I have some of those genes.

Fast Foward

It turned out that I actually had a slightly harder time getting my body to adjust back in the United States. I believe it is because in Ghana the food was very fresh. The time difference also was more of a challenge coming back. Ghana is four hours ahead, so I would want to go to sleep at 9 pm in the U.S. I did return healthy though and all in one piece.

Saturday, August 16, 2008

Adapting

My study abroad program director, Dr. Cheryl Dozier, had led many pre-departure meetings about the country. We were advised on what to bring, potential problems (such as power outages), and the environment. Even though the reality was nicer than described, I still had my trials. As a native of Athens, GA, this was also the first time I would be away from home for this long. Additionally, I did not want to get sick and may have been overly vigilent at times. I am thankful for my trip because looking back the ups greatly outnumbered the downs. For example...

May 17, 2008

Today the end was better than the beginning or the middle. For the most part we were on the bus. Then we went to where they make kente cloth in Kumasi, where they stamp fabric, and a wood carving district. I feel as though the two items I did bring to trade (UGA cups) are completely useless. The people want gum, lotion, clothes, etc., not UGA cups. I am sure someone will want them, but I wish I had brought more practical things to trade. Not to mention, I traded my flashlight for a kente cloth purse and 5 Ghana Cedis, which was probably too much because my flashlight was a really good one. I am praying that the power won't go out anywhere and I won't need it.

The aggressiveness and crowding of the men and boys of the places we went who were selling things were distracting and frustrating. At the woodcarving market I did not get off the bus. At that point I was getting hungry and thinking about everything but having a good time in Ghana. I was in a bad mood. I felt like an ugly tourist with money and not a person.

A couple of my group mates are really cool. They like to make me feel better. One girl says the most random things and it makes me laugh. I don't think anyone realizes that I have never done anything like this before and its becoming a little overwhelming.

Dinner was the usual. I had cookies from my room (after dinner) and then finally got open the jug of water I had bought that had a plastic plug in it. I hung out in two of group mates' room a little while and plaited hair. I then hung out in the Jazz Hut. The Jazz Hut is a nice little jazz and blues club next to the hotel. Everybody was relaxing. I wrote my postcards, yay! I finally have messages to send home, not through e-mail.

Fast Foward
I did grow in confidence trading and negotiating with the local people. It is their way so I had to adapt. I learned how to say 'no' sometimes, and walk away. I was able to return with nice gifts for my family and a new look at how other people in the world do business.

Arrival

May 13, 2008

This study abroad trip is my first experience with airplanes, that I can remember. My dad was in the navy when I was little, but I don't remember flying anywhere because I was very young. Anyway the flight from Atlanta to New York and then from New York to Accra was OK, but not the most comfortable ever. What the flights lacked in comfort however they made up in speed.

My first day in Ghana, my first day in Accra has been nice. The people are friendly, but I still wonder what they really think of us. By us I mean Americans, and myself as an African-American. I am going to try not to be shy and ask someone. There was actually a Ghanaian woman next to me on the flight from New York. Her name was Gladys and she works for the women's ministry part of the government. She said I would enjoy myself and taought me 'Thank You' in Akan, but she was not very talkative.

Even after the plane landed and we arrived at the hotel, I did not really feel like 'I'm in Ghana!' I have said, I know it, but somehow even as I write I'm still not really processing it. When my camera started to malfunction earlier today, it did hit me that I am not close to home. The exchange rate bothered me as well. I lost almost $3, which is not bad but now I have to get money out of the ATM and it has an even worse exchange rate. Additionally, I feel really stupid that I did not bring more cash to exchange off-hand. It turns out that by the end of the week we might burn through $150. I did not come to Ghana to watch my pennies but I may have to pack more snacks!

I guess the topic I am really writing on at this point is first impressions, expectations, and the like. I did not expect for the hotel to be as nice as it i. There were chocolates on the the pillows and salsa dancing tomorrow. The food so far has been delicious. I've tried different kinds of rice an the cake I had at dinner was splendid. The weather is not unbearable.

Land Tours keeps the bus in air conditioning. The tour of the city (of Accra) made me feel a little outside, like a real tourist. We saw more poverty than affluence, which I hadn't expected in the major city as much. At least I am not sure exactly what I saw because the tour guide said they were building in some places, but then some buildings and houses looked like they could barely stand.

The people are all very well dressed here, with a few exceptions, which I hadn't expected. By well dressed I mean really nice casual (or traditional wear) to business wear, which is 180 degrees of the American jeans and t-shirts. In a way the Ghanaian people are showing their real pride in who they are by how they dress...

Akawaaba Means Welcome

On May 12, 2008 I boarded a plane for the first time, to leave the country for the first time. I was embarking upon a great journey to the country of Ghana in West Africa. Everything was so new- the airplane safety regulations, the crowds of people, everything. I was a little anxious and only hoped to arrive in the major city of Accra safely with my luggage. I did. My arrival was a beginning and an end. It was the beginning of cultural and self exploration and the end of ignorance. Months later I am still processing my stay there. Welcome to my blog where you can read some entries from the journal I kept in Ghana, the required comprehensive journals, and contemporary updates on the affects of my journey.